Seating at the International Designers Show went from Pjazza San Gorg into the vaulted entrance of the Grandmaster’s Palace using this gorgeous entrance way as the backdrop for the show. Everybody dressed in their dapperly best, including Phaedra, the the Jack Russell Terrier (#fashionpup) in her floral bowtie, all sat patiently as the large crowd settled in for the last fashion show of the week.
The first collection was the Lila Collection from Serbia, presented by the company “Baron Fashion” from Novi Sad, led by Mladen Milivojevic. Relaxing jazz music began the night as his models came out in dresses and suits for the AW15/16 collection. Silk gowns of mint green, blush pink, and baby blue were decorated with lace embroidery around the sleeves and collars. Cotton and wool suiting designed in pastel plaids and pinstripes, wrapped comfortably around the slim bodies of male models. Dresses and skirts with box pleats, side cutouts, and asymmetrical paneling exemplified exquisite patternmaking skills. Embellished waistbands, embroidered necklaces and similar decorations carried by several models were derived from folk costumes. Colors in this collection were inspired by the sky, grain, plain fields, and by the colors of the Danube River.
House of Jola is the brainchild of Joan Okorodudu, the originator of the proudly African brand Nigeria’s Next Super Model and the owner of Africa International Fashion Week, Ecowas Fashion Week and Isis Models Africa. Tribal music provided a lively mood for this show as people tapped their feet while the models walked the runway. This was by far the most colorful collection we’ve seen, with colors ranging from bright warm yellows and oranges to cooler, deeper green and purples. Eclectic patterns and animals prints decorated long gowns, short shifts, A-lines, and structured feminine suits. Round, patterned necklaces hung on the necks of several models. Rouged sleeves, beading, and sequined embroidery added interesting textures to the garments. Although extremely eclectic, these pieces proved practical and wearable with a wide selection of styles.
Jungle sounds leading into trip hop introduced the collection, Dark Paradise, from the brand Ataraxi, designed by UK designer, Rebecca Haddaway. Featuring gender-neutral designs with sportswear tailoring influences, this collection merged the gap between leisure and luxury. Beautifully draped silks, sheers, and woven jacquards walked the runway in colors of ruby red, deep green, blue-violet and ceramic browns with touches of gold here and there. Her playful combinations of fabrics and prints created a sinuous path of well-coordinated pieces. Spins on functionality kept us on our toes as we watched several innovative designs transfix the captivated audience. The mission of the brand – to bring equality between menswear and womenswear alike – pushed the boundaries of fashion and radiated calmness and confidence; a fitting attitude for the brand name, which comes from the Greek word for a lucid state of tranquility, Ataraxia.
Designer, Penelope Demetriou, from Cyprus presented a collection inspired by theatre, Shakespearian plays, and Alfred Hitchcock’s “Brids.” Consistent embroidery, organic velvet shapes, feathers, pearls, beading, and lace all lend to the contemporary feel of dramatic performance. Combinations of plush fabrics and textures give this collection a distinct elegance while sexy crop tops, cut outs, and sheer paneling add a modern edge.
French designer, Eymeric François, presented his collection, Midnight in Paris, an all-black couture collection illustrating precision in construction as well as in deconstruction methods. His use of lace, leather, satin, and sheer with exquisite tailoring and detailing made his a couture collection with zero imperfections. Asymmetrical draping and the use of fish net in sleeves, bodice, and tights added a scandalous twist to the comprehensively feminine aesthetic, while large velvet bows and rouging lent to a more sweet appeal. Trench coat style dresses with sequins on shoulder and elbow pads added a modern edge to a classic French style. Overall, this collection displayed classic couture construction and precision with a curve of scandalous edge.
Gagliardi, a Maltese menswear designer, presented his golf inspired line of classic luxe menswear. Luxurious button downs, sweaters and suiting embodying the timeless appeal of Saville Row with a distinctive Mediterranean flair, impressed attendants, as the fine gentlemen strutted the runway carrying golf clubs and canes. Thin lapels and edge detailing pointed out admirable attention to detail. Pinstripes and plaids in soft pastels with bright pops of red and green decorated these plush fabrics. There were large and small plaids, muted and bold plaids, and fabrics so plush, you just wanted to reach out on the runway and touch them; cashmere, wool, velvet, silk, and tweed to name a few. We are proud to have such fine designers as this one gracing the catwalks at our Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Malta.
What better way to tie the stylish week to a close than to see this variety of talented international designers on Malta’s catwalk? Pleased attendants left satisfied after viewing such a glamorous galore of couture!
Show review written by Sacha Kinser and Pierre Mizzi (Logix Creative team) for MFWA.
Read what our bloggers had to say:
“The last show during the Mercedes-Benz Malta Fashion Week always comes with a little bit of bitter-sweetness: being the International Designers’ show, you would know you’d be in for a feast of intriguing designs; at the same time, you’d know that it’s the end of a most memorable week” -Confessions of a Former Size 6
“In total, six designers showcased their work, and every one of them had a distinct style, vision, and aesthetic. From dreamy pastels to bold leather, from bursts of colour to more neutral palettes, we can say we’ve had a welcome fusion of textures and shades.” -Style in Transit